Macintosh SE FDHD M5011

Macintosh SE FDHD M5011 Macintosh SE FDHD M5011 Other Apple Products

For Project /Parts as per photos includes keyboard and mouse. Internal PRAM battery has been removed unfortunately this area of Mboard is damaged. See photo. Item is untested and sold for parts or expert restoration. Plastic case is in good condition and CRT internals would be intact.

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about a day
@Rethrow Computing: €79 OFFER ACCEPTED
I'm in Dublin 2 on Thursday
about a day
€79 OFFERED
What the heck I'll grab it and put it in the project pile. Could collect maybe Thu or fri evening or else on Sunday? (Travelling to/from Dublin to the west this weekend)
about a day
Speaker working.
about a day
@falen123 you are super. Thanks so much for encouragement. It's a Quantum drive (Dundalk??) And yes 12v and 5v DC inputs. Main Fan working too. Screen is not showing anything. Quantum seems to squeak every so often too. Probably spinning 🥴. I think u can see c11 c16 and c12 iirc have been washed off. Maybe a resistor too. Is there a way to check CRT or will I just remove HDD and sell it if anyone wants it?
about a day
not three bad dude :P
I was thinking of grabbing this but not sure if I have the time to work on it. nice activity for you between gigs?
about a day
how ya rethrow !!
about a day
fair play

ide wash it again with the vinegar , dry it off wait till next day and try to power it up

to test logic board you do NOT need the scsi or floppy connected

you DO need the power connector and dont forget to connect the speaker.

try to power it up - see what happens

if nothing then you can test the power rails

use the molex connector on the hard drive - it has 4 pins - the 2 center pins are the ground , the outside pins are the +5v and +12 volt

see what voltages the analog is sending

keep your hands away from the analog/flyback/anode cap when doing this .......... im not trying to scare you , just want you to be aware that there is high voltage there - no need to discharge the high voltage yet - just stay away from that for now

if you get between 4.7 to 5.4 volt , and 11.5 to 12.4 volt ( you might want to have a quick google on those numbers ) then your analog board is good - if there is still no activity then you need to work on the logic board

the damage from the above pics looks minimal , but you say you have already washed/ cleaned it - so it was originly allot worse...

not good.........

board may need serious work

test the volt rails , see what u get
about a day
@Diarmuid10 also I saw that 2 small capacitors came off the motherboard so I'm guessing it's just the big chips and memory that would be salvaged.
about a day
@falen123 yes I washed the mother board and scrubbed most of the acid and rust off. I didn't reconnect the bus / cables. So now when I switch it on the fan runs. I don't see the HDD flickering. As I said I wasn't keen to repair this but someone like yourself may do a nice job on it? Do you think I should reopen. Earth CRT rewash board. Reconnect same. Check HDD type. Close it up and start her up again?
about a day
Listen to the man...he helped me repair my first Mac just before Covid when I was getting into this retro repair stuff :)
about a day
seems you already gad it open i would advise you to take out the logic board again and pour vinegar all over the area where the battery acid leaked - it will kill the acid - use a tooth brush to GENTLY work the vinegar all around the damaged area -let it sit for 20 min then rinse off with water - then use hair dryer to dry off the board - if the board has any chance at being brought back to life this is the first thing you should do ............ stop the acid eating the traces
about a day
its your own machine ! - what happens when you turn it on ? , anything on screen ? , can u hear drive spinning up , can you hear cooling fan on the analog board ? , anything ?
about a day
@falen123 I've closed it now and don't want to open it up. I had 1990's software including some simulation software called STELLA - a system dynamics modeling and simulation software originally developed by Barry Richmond in 1985 specifically for the Macintosh platform-. Sill want to sell this would ask buyer to delete any old useless data.
1 day
weather or not the drive actually works depends on the brand of the drive - if its a conner drive , its not good - getting them to spin up again can take a bit of work but dont open it ( thats the last resort) - if you do get it going go through the drives contents - delete any personal info fro a previous owner but see what applications are on it - all collectors look for rare applications and upload them to the macintosh garden website to preserve them - but chances are its new owner will be replacing the old scsi drive with the modern day replacement , the blue scsi etc etc - goto utube and watch some vids on powering up these macs - caution - if you open it up make sure you watch some videos on working safely on old macintosh machines - the analog board has a very high voltage flyback transformer - on the back of the crt you will see anode 'suction cup' - its red lead goes to the flyback transformer - keep your hands away from all that and the analog board itself - if your not sure best be safe and dont open it up - again utube has loads of videos on this stuff
1 day
@falen123 wow and thanks. That's very useful information. I'm still keen to give it / sell it on to an expert. I suppose I should remove or wipe the HDD?.
1 day
the SE boards are much easier to fix compared to the classic's , se/30 etc etc - its is still a 4 layer board - And its not too hard to source a replacement SE logic board - If you get just a standard SE logic board all you need to do is s-wap over the roms to the new board and you will have the 'floppy disk high density' (FDHD) ability - thats the only difference , standard SE has 800k floppy drive , FDHD is 1.4mb floppy drive - this machine should have the 1.4mb drive already fitted in it - cheers
1 day
@Rethrow Computing yes
1 day
Hi
Any keyboard or mouse with it?